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Expert Horse Trainers Offer Advice for Winter
Horse Care
If you live in a
cold-weather climate, you realize that winter
does not offer the most ideal conditions for
caring for or showing your horses. Providing
proper care for your pasture and show horses can
be challenging. In this Midwest Stallion
Directory Article, our expert Horse Trainer
Panel offers advice on caring and showing your
horses in the winter. Our Horse Trainer
Panel includes Windy Allen (WA), Tina Langness
(TL), Jodie
Janssen (JJ), Hillery Yager (HY), Monica Anderson
(MA), and Amy
Hayden (AH).
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Q. |
For
show horses, what strategies do you
incorporate to keep a slick, short hair
coat on your horses in the winter? |
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A. |
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WA- |
We keep all our horses slick, if
possible, during the winter
months even if they are not
showing. We keep lights on 16
hours over their stalls and the
barn remains about 45 degrees.
We have another area of the barn
that is self contained, that we
keep about 55 degrees for the
horses that show through the
winter. We keep blankets on all
the horses.
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MA- |
It is best to keep any animal
you are planning to show or sell
in a heated area. However, not
everyone has this opportunity.
If you don't have a heated
stall, than double blankets and
hoods and or sleezies are a
necessity. Even with heat, most
people keep a light sheet on
them. Probably the biggest thing
though is a good lighting system
which includes light on in the
stall for 12-14 hours of light
each day - timers work best for
this.
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TL- |
For those of us that are lucky
to have a heated barn this
helps, but there are ways to
keep a nice coat even without
the luxury of heat. Keeping your
horse on lights 16-hours per day
is key. It's important to use a
minimum of a 150 watt or
brighter bulb, and putting the
light on a timer makes it easy.
I use the new energy efficient
florescent bulbs, they now come
in 150 watt and cut down on
energy useage immensely. Your
initial cost will be more, but
they last 5-6 times longer than
a regular light bulb. A rule of
thumb is your horses stall must
be bright enough in each corner
to read small print from a book
or magazine. You will need to be
patient, if your horse has
haired-up for winter months it
takes about 90 days for him or
her to begin the shedding
process.
You need to keep your horse
warm, but not sweating. I keep
my barn at 60 degrees all winter
and the horses wear a light
blanket with a shoulder guard to
keep the blanket from rubbing
the hair off of the chest and
shoulder area. If your barn is
not heated, then a nylon sheet,
heavy blanket and a neck cover
or hood is a must. You don't
want your horse to sweat. If
your horse becomes sweaty
underneath his or her blanket it
can actually cause him to become
chilled which can reverse the
shedding process and tell the
horses internal sensors to grow
more hair.
A good nutrition program is very
important. I feed my own custom
grain ration that is balanced
with proper vitamins and mineral
as well as additional vitamin e
and selenium. I also add MSM and
glucosamine since many of my
horses are working hard. My
grain is also 8-9% fat which
aids in absorption, increases
longer satiety and helps put
"bloom" on a horses coat. I also
feed the highest quality alfalfa
hay I can find and my hard
keepers have hay in front of
them 24/7.
Of course grooming is a big one.
Your horses coat cannot breathe
as well with all of his winter
duds on, so daily grooming
sessions are important. Using a
rubber curry comb in a circular
motion is perfect for loosening
dead skins cells, hair, debris,
etc. Follow up with a soft body
brush or vacuuming. I then apply
a coat conditioner over the
entire horse including mane and
tail before putting blankets
back on.
If your horse is outside most of
the time or even all of the time
you can help facilitate a good
hair coat by keeping him
blanketed. If you start when the
weather begins turning chilly in
the fall you'll be ahead of the
game. If you have a small
paddock where you can add a spot
light and timer, some horses
will begin the shedding process
earlier. Studies have shown this
will also help some broodmares
begin cycling earlier, for
earlier breeding.
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JJ- |
For show horses, we have 12
heatable stalls, and we start
blanketing early, when the
daylight savings changes. As it
gets darker earlier, we blanket
(light or medium weight
depending on the temperature).
When it gets cooler, the barn is
heated to 50 degrees to keep the
chill out. Haircoats usually
keep well if you keep in mind
the temperatures, and blanket
accordingly, as well as lights,
they are very important in
keeping the horses thinking its
daylight longer. Our
lights are on from 6 am till 10
PM.
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HY- |
To keep slick hair coats on our
show horses we set the lights in
our barn on a timer to come on
at 6 a.m. and go off at 10 p.m.
We keep the barn temperature at
60 degrees farenheit. Each horse
wears a winter blanket, and we
continue with our daily grooming
routine. |
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Q. |
Do your
feeding rations change during the winter
for your show horses? For your pasturing
horses (if any)? |
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A. |
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WA- |
We do increase feed and alfalfa
during the winter months for the
horses in the barn. The outside
horses are increased when the
temperature remains below
freezing.
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JJ- |
The show horses feeding program
usually stays the same, but that
also depends on the work load.
If they are getting less
exercise due to the cold
temperatures, I will watch their
body maintenance and change my
feed accordingly. The outside
horses always get lots more, to
increase their body fat, which
helps them stay warmer.
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HY- |
Our winter time feeding rations
remain the same for our show
horses. We do increase the
alfalfa forage that we feed to
our pastured horses during the
winter months.
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TL- |
I will cut back on some of my
show horses grain rations in the
winter when showing slows down
for me. I treat every horse as a
individual and a custom feed
program is developed for each.
It's simple - if a horse is
growing hard or working hard
they require increased caloric
needs. If a increase is needed I
almost always increase roughage
(meaning hay) vs. increasing the
grain ration. Most of my show
horses have hay in front of them
all of the time. I like a horse
to have a nice fleshy feel over
his rib cage, I don't like a
overly thin horse. If a horse is
not maintaining then the grain
ration will be increased and
perhaps a balanced fat will be
added for extra calories and to
assist in absorption. Daily
exercise or turn out is also
key. My pasture horses are
generally broodmares, weanlings
and yearlings and are fed a
grain ration as well as high
quality alfalfa round bales. My
broodmares are kept separate
from the younger horses as their
caloric needs change due to
pregnancy and growth needs |
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Q. |
Do your training sessions change during
the winter. If so, how? |
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A. |
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WA- |
Definitely. Our barn is heated,
but our indoor is not. We only
had a total of about 10 days
last year that were miserable.
Since those days were not
concurrent, we would give the
horses a day off if it was
miserably cold. We are very
careful to warm up the horses
gradually and cool down the
same. We use the wool coolers
every day in the winter it
seems.
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MA- |
Training during the winter is a
bit different because you have
to be careful not to overexert
them and get the horses too
sweaty when it is 10 degrees and
below. There are those days of
below zero temps that riding is
just not pleasant for the horse
and trainer and plain not
healthy for either. On these
days the session may include a
light warming up or lounging
session or turn out to play.
But, for the most part if you do
your job 5 days a week, they
shouldn't need to work too hard.
We have to use our heads and do
what is right for the mounts. |
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AH- |
Yes, because I don't have a
heated barn or indoor arena.
I do keep winter blankets on so
their hair coats stay good. In
order to keep the horses
healthy, I don't like to get
them to heated up when the temps
drop below 10 degrees- it is
very hard on their respiratory
system. If they end up to warm,
I make sure they have a good
cooler on to dry them off.
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TL- |
My training sessions do change
as the weather turns colder and
riding has to be moved to the
indoor arena. I also take a
short hiatus from showing, so
any downtime from being on the
road is dedicated to getting the
young horses started and
figuring out the upcoming
seasons show string. I like to
give my show horses a short
break of 1-2 months off if
possible. Once training resumes
I reassess my clients goals for
the up and coming year and begin
teaching the horse new skills or
improving on current ones. Most
of my horses are really strong
in 1-2 events, but also do
the all-around, so there are
many skills the horse has to
learn and maintain throughout
the year. Driving, trail,
showmanship, patterns and lead
changes are some of the skills
we work hard on during the
colder months.
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JJ- |
My training sessions do change,
I go from riding outside
everyday, to the unheated indoor
arena, so generally, depending
on the temperature, they lighten
up a little. With the show
horses, my goal is to keep up
their stamina, but the young
stock get more days less hours.
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HY- |
In general our training sessions
do not change in the winter. We
give the horse a good warm-up
and cool-down in each ride year
round, and we focus on the
skills and conditioning that are
appropriate for each horse's
level of training. However, we
do have to make some allowances
during winter weather riding.
For example, it's not uncommon
for a horse to need extra
warm-up time to get his energy
level and attention to a point
at which he is ready to work.
The horse may not perform at his
peak level under some
circumstances such as extreme
cold, and we have to keep that
in mind during our ride and keep
our expectations for the horse
reasonable.
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Q. |
What
advice can you offer to those that are
trailering horses in the winter months.
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A. |
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WA- |
The biggest mistake I see people
making when they haul in
changing temperatures is not
knowing your trailer and not
checking the horses often. Our
trailer is insulated well, so we
are very comfortable hauling in
the winter months. However, you
have to check your horses to
make sure they are not too hot.
Don’t forget about the added
temperature the horses together
in the trailer can create. As
far as road conditions, check
them out and call ahead. I
refuse to travel if it is
snowing or icy conditions.
Nothing is that important.
HOWEVER, weather can change and
I have been caught in a few bad
situations and was very lucky to
make it out ok. Always keep in
mind where you could stop along
the way if you do have problems.
Worst case, remember that the
horses are better off standing
on the trailer at a truck stop
than in a ditch.
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MA- |
Well, blanketing is a good idea
when trailering but again if the
horse is not used to blankets
and already has a winter coat,
it may not be necessary. The
ride could get them overheated which would put them
at risk for other health
conditions such as colic. Again,
we have to use our good judgment
and plan ahead. Checking the
weather and road conditions
before hand are a must to having
a safe trip for all.
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TL- |
I think the best advice I can
give here is to be prepared! The
safety of your trailer is key! I
always check my trailer tires
for wear and air pressure before
EVERY trip whether it's 50 miles
or 1000. Also look for black
dust around the rims or hub caps
- if your brakes are grabbing,
are not set correctly, need
repair, or your wheel bearings
or seals are worn out, you'll
see a black dust or even grease
around these areas. I have my
brakes, wheel bearings and seals
checked yearly as well as the
hitch, lights, etc.
Another good thought is to have
any tire repair tools accessible
and not tucked away under tack,
in the horse compartment, etc.
I've had to change tires in
inclement weather and it's not
fun if you can't get to your
tools! If you're brave enough or
have the skills to change your
own tire, here a few items I
always have to assist me: A good
spare tire full of air at the
correct pressure, tire block you
can drive up onto, a pry bar to
get your hub cap off, a tire
iron/breaker bar, and a can of
W-D 40 to lubricate lugs that
are rusted on. I also pack a 2-3
foot pipe that can be slipped
over the end of the tire iron.
I'm not big or strong enough to
loosen some of the lugs so the
pipe gives me the extra leverage
I need if I'm by myself. I also
carry hazard triangles, and a
fire extinguisher as well as a
first aid kit.
When hauling slicked haired
horses in winter you need to
keep them warm and keep the
drafts out as best as possible.
They do need some fresh air so
if I have to crack open windows
I open them at their butt side
vs. their heads. I check on them
often to make sure no one is
sweaty. I also haul with the
lights "on" inside the trailer
beginning at dusk until 10-11 pm
to mimic being on lights just
like at home.
Watch the weather. I try not to
haul in any icy, snowy or
extreme cold conditions. It's
not worth it, period. Plan your
trip - if hauling great
distances make sure you have
back up places to stay or lay
over if necessary. Carry extra
hay and water (I keep water
inside the truck in a sealable 5
gal jug to keep from freezing,
if room). Make sure you have
back up services such as AAA RV
Plus program, etc. for towing,
engine trouble, run out of gas,
etc.
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JJ- |
For trailering in the winter,
always be aware of the
temperature. If its so cold you
are having a hard time
breathing, so will your horse.
Blanket according to
temperature, and haircoat of
your horse, i.e., less hair,
cold temperature, means more
blankets. I recommend lots of
blanket checks on long trips,
especially if traveling into
warmer clients or colder
climates you want to add or take
off blankets, before the horse
is uncomfortable.
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HY- |
I think it's important to be
sure that your truck and trailer
are properly maintained for
winter traveling. Adjust the
vents and windows in your
trailer so that the horses are
getting proper ventilation. Use
blankets and hoods for warmth.
We often use blanket liners and
sheets as well. We've found
that it's nice to have the
horses dressed in layers when
traveling to other parts of the
country as it is easy to remove
or add layers as the temperature
changes. Check the weather
and traffic reports, and use
good judgment.
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Q. |
What can
you do to prepare your horse for
temperature changes at shows? |
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A. |
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MA- |
Using some probiotics or
electrolytes is a good
preventive measure for sure
whether your are hauling in the
winter or summer months. When
leaving from a cold state and
traveling south to warmer temps
we need to stop frequently to
check the animals and sometimes
take off blankets and open vents
and windows. Offering horses
water every couple hundred miles
also is not a bad idea and
providing them with ample hay to
munch on is also helpful.
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TL- |
We show in all temperatures so I
have a big trailer and allot of
room to haul "stuff" so we are
prepared for just about
anything. It's a pain, however
it beats not being prepared and
having to locate and buy things
while you're on the road. I
carry 2 blankets, 2 sheets, a
neck cover, sheet hood, and
sleazy for every horse. If I'm
on the road a long time I bring
lights and timers and pack fans
if we need them for the warmer
weather shows. I also have a big
duffle bag full of all size
extension cords and adapters. We
try hard to prevent chills at
the cooler shows and keep
everyone covered as much as
possible. If I have a bunch of
horses saddled and waiting to be
ridden I keep them covered up
until I'm ready for them. We
"spot" wash vs. washing the
entire horse if we can get away
with it. If we have to wash the
entire horse he gets covered up
with a wool cooler until
completely dry. You also need to
keep your clients educated - one
chill at a horse show can cause
a horse to get off of their
schedule and start growing hair,
so everyone needs to get
involved. There is nothing worse
than having to show a horse that
has haired up in March or April
- again it takes about 90 days
for a horse to "cycle" through
the hairing up process and begin
to shed out.
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Q. |
Do you
have any cold-weather tricks, tips, or
advice that you could offer our readers? |
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A. |
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WA- |
Always unhook the hoses and
drain the lines. We used heater
tape on a few faucets last year
and it worked well. |
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TL- |
Keeping ice out
of hooves
- good old Vaseline or spray
cooking oil works well, but
needs to be applied everytime
the horse goes out. A barefoot
horse will keep ice balls out of
feet better than a shod one. If
a horse has to be outside with
shoes on I'll have the farrier
add barium to the bottom of the
shoes for more grab and support
when conditions are slippery.
Also adding leather or
silicone/rubber pads will
prevent ice balls.
Keep hoses disconnected from
hydraulic water pumps - a
connected hose will prevent
water from draining out of the
pipe completley and they can
freeze. Heat tape or even a
clamp light pointed on a water/sistern
spiket pipe can prevent
freezing. If you don't use
automatic waterers outside, then
tank heaters are a must to
prevent freezing. Drain water
hoses to fill water tanks after
every use and store inside. In
stalls that are not heated I
like to use heated water buckets
so I am not breaking ice out of
buckets. Spray cooking oil will
also help with getting ice out
of water buckets if applied
before filling.
Keep vehicles filled with
fuel and plug in if 10 degrees
above zero or colder. If it
gets really cold we add
Isopropolyene to gas to prevent
freezing of lines, and anti-gel
to diesel tanks to prevent
gelling. A good strong battery
and clean terminals will help
with starting.
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JJ- |
The one thing I have that I love
in the winter time for my
outside horses, is a heated
water tank, water is very
important in a horses diet and
free access to clean warm water,
is important.
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Thank you to
our Expert Horse Trainer Panel. To find
out more about each Expert, please read below.
Windy Allen of Allen Quarter Horses at Sweet
Tomorrow Farm in Elkhorn, Nebraska.
Windy
has shown such winners as Show Me The Town
(twice World Champion Aged Mare, Congress
Champion Aged Mare, AQHA Champion, AQHA World
Show Qualifer in Team Roping), Miss Double Show
(winner of numerous all-arounds and a winner in
both performance and halter events), and Kidd
Flower (winner of numerous all-arounds and a
winner in both performance and halter events).
Visit her website at:
http://sweettomorrowfarm.com/
Monica
Anderson operates her training facility in
Zumbro Falls, MN. She has trained an APHA
Champion, and many Superior Open Western
Pleasure and English Pleasure horses. She has
additionally trained several champion and
reserve champion futurity horses. Monica
Anderson Performance Horses specializes is in
training and showing young horses and in
coaching youth and amateurs to achieve their
goals.
Visit her
website at:
www.monicaandersonperformancehorses.com
Amy Hayden
operates Winning Edge Farm in Mondovi, WI.
Amy specializes in training Quarter Horses and
Paints for western pleasure and hunter under
saddle. She excels in preparing the all around
horse and rider to be competitive at any level
of competition. Her goal as a trainer is to
bring out the best in each horse and rider.
Every client and their horse is given individual
attention to meet their particular needs. Visit
her website at:
www.winningedgefarm.com
Tina Langness
resides in New Richmond, WI. Tina's
primary focus is training, showing and
instructing clients to compete with their APHA
horses. She has trained multiple World and
Congress Champions, Futurity and Stakes winners,
as well as State Champions.
Visit her
website at:
http://www.tinalangness.com/
Jodie
Janssen and her husband Scot operate Janssen
Show Horses in Austin, MN. This husband
and wife team began their training operation in
2001 and every year since they started, they
have been multiple PtHA World & Reserve World
Champions, put multiple superiors on horses,
have earned Top 5 and 10 honor roll placings,
and have made 3 APHA champions. Additionally,
Janssen Show Horses has had Top 10 placings at
the world show under each of their belts, a
Congress Champion, and customers with congress
champions, and reserves.
Visit
their website at:
www.janssenshowhorses.com
Hillery Yager
and her husband Sonny operate Yager Pleasure
Horses in Allen, NE. The husband and wife
due specialize in western pleasure, hunter under
saddle, and youth & amateur all-around. Some
accomplishments include: APHA World Show Top 5 &
Top 10 placings, World Wide Paint Horse Congress
Champions & Reserve Champions, APHA Honor Roll
pleasure horses, PtHA World Champion western
pleasure horses, numerous futurity winners &
superior western pleasure and hunter under
saddle horses.
Visit their website at:
www.yagerpleasurehorses.com
This article is
intended for informational purposes. The
Midwest Stallion Directory does not endorse or
sponsor any of the businesses listed above.
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